From Munich, we took the train to Leipzig, which is in what was once Eastern Germany, AKA the GDR, or the DDR. I expected the city to still have an air of repression about it, even though it's been twenty years since Reunification. And so, as we walked to meet our friend Kilian, I wasn't surprised by the architechture or the broken windows. I was surprised, though, by the cosmopolitan city that Kilian, Martin and I wandered through in search of Public Viewing. It was the complete opposite of what I had expected.
Martin and I met Kilian last summer when he was touring with the Leipzig Youth Orchestra, and I stayed in contact with him over the past year. We were really excited, though, that he wanted to hang out with us. I mean, I'm sure he had other friends to spend time with, especially the night of the soccer game. But, not only did he take us to Public Viewing, he also took us to an Irish Pub afterward. It was the perfect evening--we sat outside in the cool night air, drank Guinness and talked about everything from politics to music to childhood memories.
The next morning, Martin and I went to Thomaskirche, where Bach worked for a number of years. It was gorgeous. From there we went to the Bach museum, which is, handily enough, right by the church and quite interesting. They have a family tree up, and it turns out that the fourteen men of Bach's generation were all named Johann. Seriously. I mean, they all had middle names, but still. They all had the same first name. Can you imagine how confusing family Christmas must have been?
Anyway, after the Bach museum and a quick lunch of currywurst, Martin and I went to the zoo so as to appreciate the beautiful day. The weather was perfect for the zoo: sunny and warm, but with a breeze. We learned lots of animal names and even found a little slice of home in the reptile exhibit, where they have a Mississippi alligator.
That night, we happened to run into Kilian after dinner. The three of us spent the evening lounging in the grass at the park, swapping travel stories and asking questions about culture. Martin and I learned about the German system of DUIs, and Kilian learned about the all important adjective ending "ish." He seemed to really like using it, too, as almost every answer we received for the rest of the night ended with it. "How long does it take you to bike to school?" "Twenty minutes...ish." After, a while, though, it got dark (ish), and Martin got cold (ish), so we parted ways and decided to meet up the next afternoon.
Martin and I went to the Museum fuer Voelkerkunde, where we wandered aimlessly looking at things since we didn't understand a lot of the explainations. I ended up far ahead of Martin and decided to rest at the Iraq exhibit, where there were pillows and other comfy things to sit on. I had just gotten settled when a group of older men came in. I thought one was talking to me, so I took out my earbud. The man jumped and screamed "Sie lebt! Sie lebt!" and then explained to me that he had thought I was a manequinn. I guess I'm glad to know that, by German standards, I could pass for Iraqi.
Martin was feeling sick, so he went back to the hotel while I went to the Modern History Forum. It was one of the most emotional exhibits I've visited, with all the different propaganda posters and movies. It's unbelievable that twenty-five years ago I couldn't have visited Leipzig, that I wouldn't have met Kilian and that Leipzig has transitioned to capitalism so (seemingly) well.
Kilian called after I finished the museum, and we met up to wander some before he had to leave. It was hard saying goodbye to him. I feel like I've had to say goodbye so many times in the past few weeks! But I'm glad to have seen/ met everyone we have.
Soccer has dominated our lives. We've watched at least a game a day for probably a week now. I don't know what I'm going to do when it's over. It's given us a reason to go out and to actually be somewhat social with locals.
Anyway, it's getting kind of late, and I'm starting to ramble. I'll update soon with Goettingen and then Hamburg.
Peace,
Eli
28 June 2010
22 June 2010
Salzburg, and Why I'm a Firm Believer in Retail Therapy
Last night was a horrible night for me, sleep wise. I couldn't fall asleep for hours, and, when I finally did, I was painfully aware that my dreams were in German. Usually the idea of dreaming in one of my languages thrills me, but last night it was awful. My dreams had been my one refuge from German and all it entails, the few hours a day where I could hear English and understand without effort. At least until last night. It was a struggle to drag myself from bed and down to breakfast, but I did, for the sole reason that today was our Salzburg trip.
Salzburg is perhaps the prettiest, or perhaps most ornate, city I've ever visited. Everywhere you turn, there's a beautiful building, quite often a church, stretching to the sky, with a backdrop of mountain. I really can see why the hills were alive with music. I mean, I'd probably sing all the time if I lived in that beauty.
We started off our day with a trip to the Mozarts Geburtshaus, or the house in which Mozart was born. It was a really interesting museum that included a lot about his operas. There was also a listening room, where I spent probably half an hour just enjoying the music. After that, we headed to some catacombs at Toscaninihof, after stopping in some churches along the way. For lunch we ate at the oldest restaurant in Eastern Europe (open since 806!), after which we split up, as Martin wanted to visit the Festung, and I am Festung-ed out.
As I wandered the winding cobblestones of Salzburg, I couldn't help but think really cheesy thoughts--that Mozart walked along these streets, and that maybe Julie Andrews stopped in this shop. And I guess I got lost in my sleep-deprived thoughts because, next thing I know, I am in front of a Mango store. I'm convinced that it was a sign from God or karma or the universe that I should shop and not try to sightsee anymore. If the fact that I just happened upon one of my favorite stores which I have no access to EVER doesn't convince you that I was destined to shop today, H&M, which just happened to be across the street, was having a huge sale. I mean, come on. So I spent my afternoon browsing the latest European fashion and ended up purchasing a few pieces, including sequined leggings a la Gaga. It was the perfect afternoon.
I was still tired, though, and, when I'm tired, I get homesick, and, for whatever reason, when I'm homesick, I crave Asian food. Martin is not a fan of Asian food, so I went to a Vietnamese restaurant by myself. It's weird, but I really miss drinking cheap white wine and eating cheap Asian noodles. My dinner tonight was definitely top five since I've been here, if solely for the fact that I needed a splash of home in my life.
Tomorrow we leave for Leipzig. I don't know what we'll be doing, really. There's a soccer game that night, though, which promises fun.
Peace,
Eli
Salzburg is perhaps the prettiest, or perhaps most ornate, city I've ever visited. Everywhere you turn, there's a beautiful building, quite often a church, stretching to the sky, with a backdrop of mountain. I really can see why the hills were alive with music. I mean, I'd probably sing all the time if I lived in that beauty.
We started off our day with a trip to the Mozarts Geburtshaus, or the house in which Mozart was born. It was a really interesting museum that included a lot about his operas. There was also a listening room, where I spent probably half an hour just enjoying the music. After that, we headed to some catacombs at Toscaninihof, after stopping in some churches along the way. For lunch we ate at the oldest restaurant in Eastern Europe (open since 806!), after which we split up, as Martin wanted to visit the Festung, and I am Festung-ed out.
As I wandered the winding cobblestones of Salzburg, I couldn't help but think really cheesy thoughts--that Mozart walked along these streets, and that maybe Julie Andrews stopped in this shop. And I guess I got lost in my sleep-deprived thoughts because, next thing I know, I am in front of a Mango store. I'm convinced that it was a sign from God or karma or the universe that I should shop and not try to sightsee anymore. If the fact that I just happened upon one of my favorite stores which I have no access to EVER doesn't convince you that I was destined to shop today, H&M, which just happened to be across the street, was having a huge sale. I mean, come on. So I spent my afternoon browsing the latest European fashion and ended up purchasing a few pieces, including sequined leggings a la Gaga. It was the perfect afternoon.
I was still tired, though, and, when I'm tired, I get homesick, and, for whatever reason, when I'm homesick, I crave Asian food. Martin is not a fan of Asian food, so I went to a Vietnamese restaurant by myself. It's weird, but I really miss drinking cheap white wine and eating cheap Asian noodles. My dinner tonight was definitely top five since I've been here, if solely for the fact that I needed a splash of home in my life.
Tomorrow we leave for Leipzig. I don't know what we'll be doing, really. There's a soccer game that night, though, which promises fun.
Peace,
Eli
21 June 2010
Bavaria, or Why I'll Always Giggle When I See Johnny Depp
Last Tuesday, Martin and I said goodbye to German Family 1 in Bad Soden and took the train from Frankfurt to Würzburg, where we were picked up by Gabi and Andi, members of German Family 2. Let's just say that Germany is keeping us on our toes--swirling letters spelled out "Keep It Country" across Andi's shirt, and, while in the car to Rothenburg, Tik Tok came on the radio.
Rothenburg is absolutely gorgeous, albeit quite touristy. It's on what's known as the Romantic Road, and it's pretty easy to see why. I felt like I was walking around in a fairy tale! We spent a few hours just walking in a garden and the city. Martin and I were tired, though, so, after our first dönner kebap (phenomenal!), we loaded up in the Mercedes and struck on the autobahn toward Kronach.
Let me just say this about the autobahn: it's frightening. Or maybe it's something that takes some getting used to. Whichever it is, I have never feared for my life more than I did as the speedometer crept past 180 km/h. Everything turned out fine (obviously), but I guess I understand why so many people opt to take the trains instead of driving.
German Family 2 doesn't watch soccer. I didn't think it was possible, but it's true. So, instead of soccer, we watched movies in the evening. I have now seen Secondhand Lions, Pirates of the Caribbean 3 and both Blues Brothers movies in German, as well as three German comedies. As weird as it was to see some of those (i.e., POTC) in German, it was a lot of fun. It was kind of like being a little kid again. I didn't understand 99% of the jokes but could still appreciate slapstick humor. However, I did learn something, although rather indirectly, from our movie nights. I noticed that someone had written "Depp" on a picture of a politician on one of his posters and thought to myself "He looks nothing like Johnny Depp. It must mean something!" Turns out, it means prick.
Our days in Kronach were lazy--we toured the castle and the art museum there, then had lunch at a brewery and spent the afternoon in the park on Wednesday, and watched soccer all of Friday. Thursday was our Nürnberg trip. The doku-zentrum museum is probably the most informative museum I've ever been to regarding Hitler and the Third Reich, and it was fascinating.
We left German Family 2 yesterday for Munich. After we dropped the bags off, Martin and I split up. He went in search of the BMW Museum, and I chose to spend my afternoon in the Neue Pinotek and Pinotek Der Moderne. The Neue was splendid and just what I needed on a rainy Sunday, as the art was mainly from the 19th century and included pieces by both the impressionists and postimpressionists. It was also relatively uncrowded, especially when compared to the Moderne, where I spent half an hour before bailing to meet Martin at the hotel. We had an early dinner, then went to see Robin Hood. German movie theaters sell gummi bears AND beer. I'm in love with this country.
Today we went to Schloß Nymphenburg, which is beautiful. The weather's been kind of icky, so we didn't get to walk around the grounds too much. I guess that's a reason to come back, though. For lunch, we went to Hofbräuhaus, and I have to say this in so many words: Mother, you were right. I loved it. I want to go there everyday. It's wonderful! Huge steins of beer, potato dumplings, oompa bands, lederhosen AND a delicious dampfnudle for dessert. Then we walked around Marienplatz and the Viktualienmarkt for a few hours, and, after a peek inside Frauen Kirche, headed back to the hotel, where we are now. We're going to see When In Rome tonight. Somehow chick flicks are more appealing when you don't know what's being said the whole time. Tomorrow is Salzburg. I'll update then.
Peace,
Elizabeth
Rothenburg is absolutely gorgeous, albeit quite touristy. It's on what's known as the Romantic Road, and it's pretty easy to see why. I felt like I was walking around in a fairy tale! We spent a few hours just walking in a garden and the city. Martin and I were tired, though, so, after our first dönner kebap (phenomenal!), we loaded up in the Mercedes and struck on the autobahn toward Kronach.
Let me just say this about the autobahn: it's frightening. Or maybe it's something that takes some getting used to. Whichever it is, I have never feared for my life more than I did as the speedometer crept past 180 km/h. Everything turned out fine (obviously), but I guess I understand why so many people opt to take the trains instead of driving.
German Family 2 doesn't watch soccer. I didn't think it was possible, but it's true. So, instead of soccer, we watched movies in the evening. I have now seen Secondhand Lions, Pirates of the Caribbean 3 and both Blues Brothers movies in German, as well as three German comedies. As weird as it was to see some of those (i.e., POTC) in German, it was a lot of fun. It was kind of like being a little kid again. I didn't understand 99% of the jokes but could still appreciate slapstick humor. However, I did learn something, although rather indirectly, from our movie nights. I noticed that someone had written "Depp" on a picture of a politician on one of his posters and thought to myself "He looks nothing like Johnny Depp. It must mean something!" Turns out, it means prick.
Our days in Kronach were lazy--we toured the castle and the art museum there, then had lunch at a brewery and spent the afternoon in the park on Wednesday, and watched soccer all of Friday. Thursday was our Nürnberg trip. The doku-zentrum museum is probably the most informative museum I've ever been to regarding Hitler and the Third Reich, and it was fascinating.
We left German Family 2 yesterday for Munich. After we dropped the bags off, Martin and I split up. He went in search of the BMW Museum, and I chose to spend my afternoon in the Neue Pinotek and Pinotek Der Moderne. The Neue was splendid and just what I needed on a rainy Sunday, as the art was mainly from the 19th century and included pieces by both the impressionists and postimpressionists. It was also relatively uncrowded, especially when compared to the Moderne, where I spent half an hour before bailing to meet Martin at the hotel. We had an early dinner, then went to see Robin Hood. German movie theaters sell gummi bears AND beer. I'm in love with this country.
Today we went to Schloß Nymphenburg, which is beautiful. The weather's been kind of icky, so we didn't get to walk around the grounds too much. I guess that's a reason to come back, though. For lunch, we went to Hofbräuhaus, and I have to say this in so many words: Mother, you were right. I loved it. I want to go there everyday. It's wonderful! Huge steins of beer, potato dumplings, oompa bands, lederhosen AND a delicious dampfnudle for dessert. Then we walked around Marienplatz and the Viktualienmarkt for a few hours, and, after a peek inside Frauen Kirche, headed back to the hotel, where we are now. We're going to see When In Rome tonight. Somehow chick flicks are more appealing when you don't know what's being said the whole time. Tomorrow is Salzburg. I'll update then.
Peace,
Elizabeth
14 June 2010
Bad Soden, Part 2: How I Learned to Eat Potatoes
Yesterday, Hans and Rachel took us to the Rhinegau. It's probably half an hour from their lovely little town of Bad Soden and is one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. We walked from one castle to another through rolling hills of vineyards and rosebushes--I'll post pictures soon, if the netbook allows it.
Anyway, we had dinner at one of the vineyards, where Martin and I received a crash course in German table manners, which I know you're just dying to hear about. Well, for one, you leave your hands on the table, poised to create your next bite, in place of letting them rest in your lap. German efficiency, anyone? Also, you don't use a knife to cut your potatoes; instead, you use your fork at a "36 degree" angle and hope that said potatoes don't roll into your lap. Sadly, these are the only two that stuck with me, but still I thoroughly enjoyed our discussion on manners. Rachel and Hans have been so wonderful in our adjustment to German culture in small ways like that.
And, of course, last night was the Germany-Australia soccer game. Hans drove over 100 mph to make sure we got back to watch most of the game. Needless to say, Germany won. (I say needless to say because Germany is just so amazing. And because I really don't know jack shit about soccer, so it just seems like they should have a good team.) I rode with Rachel to pick up Matthias from a friend's house, and it was insane. There were people standing in the streets with German flags, people riding on top of cars, people leaning out of balconies--people everywhere doing incredibly dangerous things in the name of soccer, and it was only Germany's first game! Never again will I complain about traffic on the Square after a football game.
Today we went into Frankfurt, which is about twenty minutes from Bad Soden. It's such a nice city, although I didn't have the luck of running into Herr Kaya. I bought a German soccer jersey and Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone in German. For lunch, I had the traditional eggs and "green sauce." It was tasty but not what I expected. For some reason, I pictured eggs benedict with a sauce hybrid of green mole and hollandaise--wrong. It was hard boiled eggs and potatoes on top of a cold-ish green sauce. I really don't know how to describe the taste except spice-y. Not like hot "spicy," but in a sense that there were lots of spipces, I guess. It was pretty good, though, and I was able to cut my potatoes like a proper German lady. And I pet a dog! Dogs are everywhere over here, but I've been too afraid to actually pet one, in fear of looking dumb. But today, I just went up and petted this dog, and I think the woman thought I was German because she kept talking to me in German after I asked her his name.
This evening Rachel took me to a friend's house for a dinner party. It was so much fun and so interesting. And Hans hadn't made up those table manners to throw us off--all the ladies kept their hands on the table as they chewed. Some even talked while they had food in their mouths. This is not to say that I am looking down on their manners or anything like that. It's just that my inner debutante was (and is) fascinated by the differences in culture that seep down into the manners of eating.
I suppose that's all for today. We leave for Kronach tomorrow morning, and I need to sleep.
Bis morgen,
Elizabeth
Anyway, we had dinner at one of the vineyards, where Martin and I received a crash course in German table manners, which I know you're just dying to hear about. Well, for one, you leave your hands on the table, poised to create your next bite, in place of letting them rest in your lap. German efficiency, anyone? Also, you don't use a knife to cut your potatoes; instead, you use your fork at a "36 degree" angle and hope that said potatoes don't roll into your lap. Sadly, these are the only two that stuck with me, but still I thoroughly enjoyed our discussion on manners. Rachel and Hans have been so wonderful in our adjustment to German culture in small ways like that.
And, of course, last night was the Germany-Australia soccer game. Hans drove over 100 mph to make sure we got back to watch most of the game. Needless to say, Germany won. (I say needless to say because Germany is just so amazing. And because I really don't know jack shit about soccer, so it just seems like they should have a good team.) I rode with Rachel to pick up Matthias from a friend's house, and it was insane. There were people standing in the streets with German flags, people riding on top of cars, people leaning out of balconies--people everywhere doing incredibly dangerous things in the name of soccer, and it was only Germany's first game! Never again will I complain about traffic on the Square after a football game.
Today we went into Frankfurt, which is about twenty minutes from Bad Soden. It's such a nice city, although I didn't have the luck of running into Herr Kaya. I bought a German soccer jersey and Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone in German. For lunch, I had the traditional eggs and "green sauce." It was tasty but not what I expected. For some reason, I pictured eggs benedict with a sauce hybrid of green mole and hollandaise--wrong. It was hard boiled eggs and potatoes on top of a cold-ish green sauce. I really don't know how to describe the taste except spice-y. Not like hot "spicy," but in a sense that there were lots of spipces, I guess. It was pretty good, though, and I was able to cut my potatoes like a proper German lady. And I pet a dog! Dogs are everywhere over here, but I've been too afraid to actually pet one, in fear of looking dumb. But today, I just went up and petted this dog, and I think the woman thought I was German because she kept talking to me in German after I asked her his name.
This evening Rachel took me to a friend's house for a dinner party. It was so much fun and so interesting. And Hans hadn't made up those table manners to throw us off--all the ladies kept their hands on the table as they chewed. Some even talked while they had food in their mouths. This is not to say that I am looking down on their manners or anything like that. It's just that my inner debutante was (and is) fascinated by the differences in culture that seep down into the manners of eating.
I suppose that's all for today. We leave for Kronach tomorrow morning, and I need to sleep.
Bis morgen,
Elizabeth
13 June 2010
Bad Soden
Well, I made it to Germany in one piece, thanks to Benadryl, an amazing iPod battery and a few prayers to St. Anthony. (They couldn't find the crew for the Jackson-Memphis flight. St. A = saint of lost things. Make sense?)
Anyway, we're staying with Rachel, a friend of Daddy's from work. She's lovely, and her family is precious. Her husband is named Hans, and they have two sons, Thomas and Matthias. Thomas spent a year in the US and therefore speaks PERFECT English, right down to the accent. Matthias is the younger son, and he's suuuch a little brother. We made dinner and ate as a family, then went to the park to watch the US-UK game in a park close by. It was so nice--they had beer and sausage vendors set up, and a big screen in front of benches and tables.
Today Hans and Rachel are taking us on a drive/ hike throught the country. We're going to a castle and a vineyard, or something. After an early dinner, we're going to come back and watch the Germany-Australia game in the park. Apparently things are going to be crazy, and I can't wait. I'm imagining the Grove but with Germans and legal beer.
It's so pretty here! Streams twisting through parks, houses on (mini) mountains, and dogs everywhere. Tomorrow we're going in to Frankfurt to explore some, and Tuesday we're off to Bavaria.
Frieden :)
Eli
Anyway, we're staying with Rachel, a friend of Daddy's from work. She's lovely, and her family is precious. Her husband is named Hans, and they have two sons, Thomas and Matthias. Thomas spent a year in the US and therefore speaks PERFECT English, right down to the accent. Matthias is the younger son, and he's suuuch a little brother. We made dinner and ate as a family, then went to the park to watch the US-UK game in a park close by. It was so nice--they had beer and sausage vendors set up, and a big screen in front of benches and tables.
Today Hans and Rachel are taking us on a drive/ hike throught the country. We're going to a castle and a vineyard, or something. After an early dinner, we're going to come back and watch the Germany-Australia game in the park. Apparently things are going to be crazy, and I can't wait. I'm imagining the Grove but with Germans and legal beer.
It's so pretty here! Streams twisting through parks, houses on (mini) mountains, and dogs everywhere. Tomorrow we're going in to Frankfurt to explore some, and Tuesday we're off to Bavaria.
Frieden :)
Eli
03 June 2010
One week.
I'm so ready, but it's so bittersweet.
I bought my books today. Six of them, all pertaining to German history, and only one that's fiction. I'm really looking forward to reading them while I'm there. It just feels right.
I just want to leave without having to say goodbye to anyone else. Can I do that?
Peace,
Eli
I'm so ready, but it's so bittersweet.
I bought my books today. Six of them, all pertaining to German history, and only one that's fiction. I'm really looking forward to reading them while I'm there. It just feels right.
I just want to leave without having to say goodbye to anyone else. Can I do that?
Peace,
Eli
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